Lisbon, when I arrived, was also on strike (I told you, lack of transport is my thing). This time I went the safer route of sharing a taxi with some fellow backpackers, which resulted in a much less stressful zip through the city.
My hostel, Traveller’s House, was located on Rua Augusta, right in the centre of everything and I can’t praise them enough. The staff are switched on and offer detailed advice no matter what your question. They run a different activity every night and offer a complimentary breakfast of bacon and eggs, which is cooked for you on-demand, instead of left to congeal in a cold metal dish. Yes, I have discovered the Holy Grail of Backpackers – a hostel that offers a free hot breakfast.
Oh Lisbon, you are beautiful and your coastal views are soothing to a frazzled soul. Standing on the shoreline, looking back at yellow buildings illuminated in a sunset glow is a memory I hope to keep with me for life.
The food is definitely meat heavy, so vegetarians bring your own tofu. And carrots. But the seafood is so fresh it is usually sitting in the restaurant window, waiting for you to select it.
On my first night I attracted disapproving glances from an elderly local who didn’t quite know how to handle a young woman dining alone in a Locals Only restaurant. That is, until I managed to whip out the skeleton – head attached – of my sea bass without the slightest of flinches. This achievement earned a slight nod of approval: Here is a woman that can handle her seafood.
I am very thankful I grew up in a household that enjoyed seafood that actually looks like seafood. You needed to learn how to shell a prawn and fast if you wanted any and we often had whole baked trout. I remember a friend almost fainting when she unwrapped hers one evening and said in a small voice, “it still has its head.”
On my second night I was far more adventurous, deciding not to stick to the limited English menu but point at what other diners were having, much to the amusement of the waiter. I think my favourite dish was tentacle salad, which is not a quaint name but a legitimate description. The tentacles were cut into bite-sized chunks and tossed with onion (i.e. the ‘salad’) and dressing. I’ve never seen such large tentacles and did have some minor qualms that I may have accidentally eaten the Kraken.
Again, I was left shaking my head when I overheard another backpacker ask, “So, what is the difference between squid and octopus?” Fools!
On my final night, my hostel hosted a Portuguese tapas night and we got to sample different chorizos with locally-produced sheep’s cheese, olives, bread and cured ham. It was delicious. The chorizo was cooked on the back of a tiny ceramic pig and I wanted to take it home with me. The flavours were rich and varied in spice.
When I wasn’t stuffing my face on Portuguese cuisine I was wandering the town, backpack hoisted and comfortable shoes trudging the hills. Belem was a favourite experience, despite the pouring rain, and I enjoyed ambling around the tiny alleyways, praying I didn’t get squished by the passing cars.
Lisbon was a perfect way to end my week away and I definitely want to explore more of Spain and Portugal.
Travels and Tea Leaves 